Camille Roucher, chic lingerie designer

Camille Roucher is a young lingerie designer who weaves subtlety and finesse into the finery she creates. Her career in art allowed her to approach lingerie with an acute, refined sense of aesthetic. Every detail resonates with her creative intuition. The delicate and precious materials she uses hint at curves to better suggest and retain the sense of mystery that surrounds women. Fine materials are carved from precious materials, the fluidity of fabrics conveys chicness while the subtlety of style conveys elegance. Silk, lace and embroidery become ornaments that suggest the woman’s body in a personal and private expression.

Maison Sensey: How did it begin?

Camille Roucher: I have a very artistic background. I attended the Académie des Beaux Arts (Academy of Fine Arts), focusing more specifically on painting studies. It is very different from lingerie, but I had a fairly complete artistic background ranging from painting and photography to theater. I really enjoyed theater and decided I wanted to work in performing arts, but through stage costume. The world of fashion came to me a bit by chance.

As I wanted to create stage costumes, I discovered the Formamod school, which specialized in lingerie. Attending this school was especially important if you wanted to create corsets, among other things. That’s when I discovered lingerie. During this apprenticeship, I did an internship at Crazy Horse Paris. It was a fascinating experience, and the world of lingerie became more and more enticing. That’s how it came to me!

What did you discover at Crazy Horse Paris?

An extremely feminine and very aesthetic world, may it be through dancing, choreographies, or bright scenes. I completely fell in love with the world of cabaret and with this one more specifically. I always knew I wanted to work in art but I was still looking for my own means of expression, that’s why I went through theater, photography… different subjects that inspired me a lot but I was especially sensitive to the delicate world of lingerie and I wanted to express myself by creating collections for this universe. In 2014, I left school and thought: I love lingerie, why not launch my own brand?

What do you want to express in your lingerie collections?

I try to convey my sensitivity through a specific aesthetic, in the mix of fabrics, in the choice of materials, and in the design of garments. I want to convey my singular artistic sensibility.

You use silk, lace… what fascinates you in these fabrics?

The delicacy of these fabrics is extremely valuable. Their lightness, their fluidity, the way they are traditionally handcrafted are fascinating. I fall in love with such fabrics and they define my designs. It’s a case of love at first sight with fabrics, embroideries… but I’m really inspired by their delicacy and finesse. For example, one of my designs is embroidered with small flowers and Swarovski crystals – I enjoy this very intricate three-dimensional piece. It inspired a whole collection. I adorned a set of small satin floral sculptures with Swarovski pearls and I really like the three-dimensional effect it provides.

What do you expect when a woman wears your lingerie? What would you like to share with her?

I want her to feel unique, feminine. I want the lingerie to sublimate her body and bring her freedom at the same time.

How do you define beauty?

I use my instinct and intuition. Beauty is reflected in the eyes of those who contemplate it! I try to express this through my choice of designs and materials, but obviously it has been shaped by my artistic background of these past years. The sense of beauty is too broad to be discussed and too reductive to be asserted.

What are your sources of inspiration in art?

A few years ago, I was really inspired by Art Nouveau, like Mucha or the architect Hector Guimard. Klimt, of course. I feel inspired by the decorative part of art. I recently saw an exhibition by Zao Wou-Ki, I was extremely moved and shaken by his painting. It is inhabited, soulful, and very strong, it deeply moves me. But there are so many others… I like art that overwhelms you. It’s also part of what I want to convey.

The woman you are ‘sketching out’ is extremely subtle, are you aware of it?

I suggest, I do not reveal everything, and yet … yes, maybe it’s subtle. It stays rather hidden because I do not like to reveal too much. When we tackle lingerie we necessarily get close to sexuality, I like suggestive seduction, it’s more elegant.

Which collections are you showcasing at Maison Sensey’s Gallery?

I’m presenting two lines. The Flowerskin collection and the Nighthawks collection. Flowerskin is a timeless collection made of satin and Calais lace. The Nighthawks collection includes flowers carved in precious fabrics, very fine lace, and French embroidery on tulle that provides transparency and reveals the body. It creates a subtle, delicate tattoo.

What will be your next collection?

With my next collection, the Gold line, I took a risk as I moved away from black and got closer to art deco. But I fell in love with the fabric. The fabric I chose can be used on either side; it is reversible. And there is always some lace. It is the first time I’m working with a pattern. 90% of the materials I use are “Made in France”: lace is either from Calais or Chantilly, silk is French too. I want to make “Made in France” a point of honor in all my collections.

What is your definition of elegance ?

Elegance’s chicness is reflected in style.

Can your lingerie sets improve one’s elegance ?

When one knows they are wearing delicate finery under their clothes, I believe it can play a part. I reckon elegance is impalpable, it emanates from someone, it has to do with charisma and charm.

What is your vision of today’s woman ?

The only thing I can say is that women are really men’s equals. There are way less taboos, we stand proud. Women are free.

Interview by Barbara Sensey 
Paris